Step By Step (ooh Baby?)

Here's Part I of a nigh-presumably-infinite series entitled "Tricks and Tips"
Or something... it's a work in progress.

Anyway... first off... the cutting.
When you print the pages onto your cardstock (I used 100lb paper, but I have read that some folks prefer thicker paper (200? actual cardboard? I'm not entirely sure of their specifics... ) it will look like this:

 A cutting surface and exacto-style blade are good to start... some people use rulers or other straight edges to ensure their accuracy along the crucial lines... I found that over time (well after one piece) I took LESS time doing it freehand... even taking my time I seemed to go faster than I did while using a ruler.  But to each their own.

Once your pieces are cut out of the page - and quite a few of the pieces will be involved with other pieces on the same page - you will want to bend at the dotted lines. These lines are the fold lines that involve the tabs that you will be putting the glue on very soon. A blunt-yet-fine pointed edge (a pencil, ball-point pen with no ink, or... if you're careful, the exacto-blade itself lightly drawn along the same line) should suffice. The goal here is to score the dotted line so it will bend cleanly without affecting the rest of the piece.

Next step... glue!
This part is somewhat more individual... some folks swear by crazy glue or contact cement... I VASTLY prefer Elmer's Rubber Cement. It's clear (which is a BIT of a disadvantage) but it doesn't smell (and make you headachy or high) and it's less obnoxiously tendrilly Peter-Parker-spider webshootery sticky than the amber-coloured contact cement-glue I used in this piece... you can see the contrast - I have applied Elmer's to the area where the brush is ALREADY.
It's about $5 a bottle (120mL) and each bottle will last you a while... but admittedly I went through probably 10 bottles overall.
Here's a bit of an extra trick, though... once the bottle is used up and you can't get any more glue out of it, the brush can be used to apply the resin to the finished pieces... more specifically to the outsides of the pieces... I'll detail this more a bit later.